Adventure Into the Unknown

—Ann Boggess, State Park Interpreter III, Channel Coast District

Paddlers transporting the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow, weighing 800 pounds, down to the water. Photo by Robert Schwemmer/NOAA.

Leaving in the dark at 3:00 a.m. with stars to guide them, the paddlers set out in their tomol to cross 22 miles of ocean as they head to their homecoming.

This sounds like a scene from a really cool movie but it is actually a very real current event. It began over 20 years ago to celebrate the Chumash maritime culture which dates back thousands of years. Their plank canoes called tomols were an important part the Chumash economy and way of life. Tomols were traditionally used for fishing, travel, trade and to connect themselves to other villages and communities. In 1976 this maritime culture was reawakened and brought back to life by Chumash community members who researched historic accounts of tomol construction. This resulted in the first tomol built in 142 years named Helek which means Peregrine Falcon. Since then, members of the Chumash community undertake the traditional tomol journey across the Santa Barbara Channel from the mainland to their homeland in Limuw, now also known as Santa Cruz Island in Channel Island National Park. The paddle is a big part of the 3-day celebration filled with ceremonies, dances, games, crafts and lots of singing.

The 22-mile paddle takes a great deal of preparation for the Chumash coordinator of the crossing collaborates with Channel Islands National Parks (CINPS) working with their MOU for the crossing. Another important partner in the crossing is the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) who designated the waters surrounding the Channel Islands to protect natural and cultural resources creating the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary.  Both CINPS and NOAA provide support staff and vessels for the crossing to transport paddlers and dignitaries during the event. This year was the first year California State Park staff was invited on the crossing – that staff was me and as you might imagine I was humbled, honored and shocked to receive the invitation.

Brotherhood of the Tomol members, Marcus and John, put the finishing binding on a paddle to be used in the crossing. Photo by Ann Boggess.

Over the past five years my work at La Purisima Mission SHP included seeking Chumash culture bearers who would like to share their voice in our interpretive programs. Along came Tom Lopez a Northern San Luis Obispo Chumash and language teacher, dancer, paddler and culture bearer with the Santa Ynez Band Chumash Culture Department. Tom and I worked together in creating the Chumash Life PORTScast as well as the in-person programs for K-12 and public events. He has opened many doors in the Chumash community bridging a gap to those who might otherwise not have answered the call to share.

One such introduction was in early 2024 to Steve Villa of the Barbareno Chumash Tribal Council and coordinator of the crossing. I asked Steve if he would be interested sharing about Chumash maritime culture at Carpinteria State Beach which lead to a Chumash community gathering and tomol practice at Carpinteria SB in June 2024.

This past January I reached out to see if he was interested in working together again and he invited me to do the crossing. He said, “I want you to experience the whole thing!” I was speechless and after a minute I finally replied with a resounding YES!

Captain Steve Villa stands next to the newly created Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow; the Chumash say that tomols are born when they are completed, and they are alive with the spirits of their ancestors. Photo by Ann Boggess.

So started the journey to the crossing, heading into uncharted territory with no idea all that would unfold and knowing deep inside it was an adventure I had to experience. With that came the call from Steve inviting to check out the tomol they were building in their Oxnard workshop. I had read about the special group of men known as the Brotherhood of the Tomol who milled redwood that drifted to the island into planks, sewed them together using cordage made from dogbane and sealed the gaps with yop (mixture of tar and pine pitch). Now I was going to see Steve and Tom and their Brotherhood of the Tomol in action. I met Marcus Lopez Sr. and John Bear both part of this special group. I have learned in the Chumash way of life, great care is taken in whatever they do and this is certainly true in tomol building. Tom explained, “We are recreating something our ancestors used so we have to be in the right frame of mind. We smudge ourselves and the work area before we get started.” Then they get to work steaming the planks in a specially designed rig that pumps steam into an enclosed case. That makes the planks flexible so they can bend them onto the form. Once they get the planks in place they sew them together with cordage and then seal with yop. I watched as they created the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow which means Northern star. It took about 6 months to complete. Steve said when it is completed it is born. Great care is given to protect and tend to each tomol as they are living and breathing with the memories of their ancestors.

The next phase in the journey was paddle practice on Saturday mornings at the beach in Santa Barbara. I walked up to our group of paddlers as we gathered around the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow on the trailer behind Steve’s truck. About 10 of us carried the 800-pound vessel down to the beach. Once down there Marcus prepared a small hole in the sand, lit a bundle of sage and blessed the practice area while the rest of us worked on getting the equipment out and sandbags filled for the ballast. Everyone was called over to gather in a circle around a ceremonial pole he stuck in the sand. Marcus walked around to each person and smudged them with sage smoke and then said a few words about the importance of gathering as a community and working together. Meanwhile one of the paddlers walked around and gave everyone a pinch of tobacco for the offering to either the sea or into the small fire in the sand.

Ann Boggess, sitting in the second seat from the front, paddles with Tom and Steve in the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow in Santa Barbara Harbor, preparing for the crossing of the Channel. Photo by Mike Boggess.

Next the sandbags were used to ballast to weigh down the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow in the water and keep it balanced. Like all things tomol special attention was given to this task. I heard Marcus tell one of the younger paddlers learning to ballast the tomol, “if your upset and your mind isn’t balanced then get someone else to prepare the ballast. The ocean spirit is powerful and needs to be respected or it could take your life”. I still think about the truth in that and hope the next generation continues to pass along the wisdom of their elders.

With the ballast set it was time to paddle. As the first group launched Marcus and Steve began to sing them out with a song that gave blessings on their health and their paddle. Tom said it was a tradition with the ancestors because those left on shore didn’t know if they would see their paddler’s return.

My turn came next as I climbed into the second seat behind Tom in front seat. He is the pace setter, my job was to stay in sync with his pace, Mike who I had just met was third seat and he stays in sync with me and Steve was our navigator who steers the tomol. They said the paddlers work in unity and should be one motion like a centipede. After about 10 minutes I was feeling it in my arms, but I didn’t want to be the weak link, so I kept going until about 15 minutes later Steve gave the “paddles up” command to stop paddling as we coasted to shore where we were met by the crew who helped us unfold from sitting on our feet. The paddlers varied in age, ability, experience, and included men and women. I was impressed the focus on safety, teamwork and encouragement. They made me feel part of the team and were helpful in bringing me along. I was also impressed at the veteran paddlers like Tom, Steve and Marcus who had done the crossing many times before and didn’t come across with ego but instead where coaching and bringing up the next generation with care.

Back at the shore the group had grown with Chumash from various tribes and all ages from little peeps to elders. Standing onshore I could hear children singing, looking up I saw two young Chumash girls paddling a kayak with big smiles singing in Chumash and laughing. Marcus was standing on shore with the girls’ father, and both were smiling at the site.

Finally, it was the weekend of the crossing. A safety meeting was held the night before the paddle with about 50 others that included all the paddlers, support crews and a few elders. Before the meeting started some of the younger Chumash were playing a rousing game of stick dice. Steve and Marcus opened with smudging and honoring the Ventureno elders this was followed with the men singing with clapper sticks and rattles. It was impressive. Then we all headed to the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow and hoisted it onto our shoulders to carry it down to the water for ballasting and smudging and more songs. The evening ended with pizza in the conference room and the order to be back at 1:30 a.m. for the final weather check and boarding preparations. Departure would be at 3:00 a.m.

After setting the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow (which means Northern Star) in the water, it must be loaded with ballast to stabilize it and provide seating for the paddlers. Photo by Ann Boggess.

1:30 a.m. in the low light of the docks about 50 others gathered to prepare for departure. A slight breeze blew in the harbor which meant the channel forecast was high winds. With that Steve and Marcus announced the official decision to cancel the paddle. I was sad to not paddle but we would still head to the island for the homecoming celebration with the rest of the Chumash community. Marcus lit a sage bundle to smudge the area as the singers broke into song and the ballast was unloaded from the tomol. Once again we hoisted the Milimolič hu ‘Aqiwow onto our shoulders took her back to the trailer and all given boarding orders for the vessels crossing later that morning.

My vessel was a solar powered trimaran captained by a lifelong sailor and his crew. They packed 17 of us on board and set out to sail at 7:00 a.m. We were all sleep deprived and trying not to get seasick in the windy foggy swell conditions of the channel. With my double dose of Dramamine I stayed intact for the five hour crossing of the Channel.  The tomol crossing takes about 7 to 12 hours to complete. Though I have no idea how physically challenging it would be to paddle the tomol across the channel, my own experience was challenging for me but I was glad I made it without getting sea sick! Once we arrived at Limuw the women on board began to sing to those on shore who returned the song and sang us in. The island was beautiful and the sun had come out and it was time for lunch. Over 180 Chumash gathered on the island that weekend to celebrate this homecoming to Limuw. This was the place of their creation story. I could sense the community and their comfort with the place and each other they were home. Later that night they would have a sweat and more ceremonies, dancing and songs. I made many new friends on this adventure and learned a few things too.

It takes commitment to work with all that makes this special homecoming possible. From coordinating with various agencies, preparing the tomol and the team, preparing the spaces on the island prior to the event including building a sweat lodge and space for dancing and ceremony. Not to mention the challenge of just getting to the island. I can only imagine the determination and strength it takes to do the 22 mile channel crossing. The journey 180 Chumash took was not easy to pack their kids and elders and all their things for the weekend on a boat and travel a couple of hours in various winds and weather conditions out to Limuw and set up camp. Sadly some are no longer able to make the journey while others don’t make it due to schedules, illness, and / or life. I learned that it is a spiritual journey for some as one woman I met survived cancer and was there to thank her ancestors at Limuw. Whatever the reason I saw a community sharing stories, food, playing games, doing crafts and enjoying their time together. I am grateful I had the opportunity to be part of this crossing. I want to say kaqhinalin (thank you) to Tom Lopez for his generosity in sharing his culture, opening doors of opportunity and his friendship, Steve Villa for his generous invitation to take part in this and to Marcus Lopez Sr. for his hospitality in welcoming me into this very special community.